Worm Species

1. Worm farming Introduction
2. Worm farming terms
3. Worm species which one is best?
4. Worm anatomy
5. Worm reproduction

 Knowing which worm to ranch is very important. If you went outside and found a handful of worms, put them in a bin, and began to love and feed them. They would surely die. On this page I'll talk about the best specie for composting, but if you should decide to venture into another purpose for your worm ranching skills then a little pointing in the right direction is always helpful.

 Earthworms are invertebrates and there are thousands of species (currently over 8,000) that are grouped into 3 categories.

Anecic group

Endogeic group

Epigeic group

Anecic group
like the common nightcrawler (species Lumbricus Terrestris Canadian Nightcrawlers, the best fishing worms) builds permanent vertical burrows that can extend 4-6 ft. in the soil. They come up to feed on decaying matter then retreat back into their burrow. They coat the walls of the burrow with mucous stabilizing it making it harder to collapse. They can even recognize their own burrow even in a high traffic environment where others of the same species have dug holes. They have a spoon-shaped tail with little retractable hairs  called setae which help it to grip the walls when being pulled out. These are very large worms and do not do well in a densely populated scenario. If you plan to culture these worms for fishing then this is your perfect bait.

Endogeic group
Like the Alabama Jumper (Species Pheretima Hawayanus, excellent garden worms) builds lateral burrows and rarely comes to the surface. They are pale, or have a pale pinkish tone. these are the only type of worms that eat soil and decaying matter. these can be good worms to have in your garden since they have lateral burrows which help to aerate the soil. these are your medium sized worms.

Epigeic group
Species (Eisenia fetida) A.K.A. red wigglers, redworms, manure worms, tigerworms, brandling worms, red wrigglers, and composting worms. These worms spend most of their time on the topsoil where rich decaying matter is found like leaves, grass, wood, manure, etc...  When roughly handled, they exude a pungent liquid thus the specific name fetida meaning fetid- nauseating: having a rotten or offensive smell. This is presumably a defense. In my experience with these little guys you don't notice any smell unless they are in a squirm (a large mass of worms) and it's still only a mild odor . So if you're wanting to raise worms and harvest their castings (poop) then these guys are your little poopers.

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Worm Farming Bins

1. Worm farming bins Introduction
2. Plastic worm bins
3. Continuous flow through bin
4. Flow through reactor

Worm bins can come in all shapes and sizes and by the time your done reading this guide you just might have enough information to come up with some kind of worm farming bin of your own. Although, I'm sure by now your squirming to get started, but you might want to consider a few options first so you'll know what best fits your needs. It is always said, that as easy as it is to start a worm farm, these small scale bins are actually the hardest. In the event that there is some kind of imbalance there is little room for the worms to go. With that being said, I want to go over some basics that are important for all worm farming bins.

#1 Bedding
Bedding, Bedding, and more bedding. This is probably the most important of all inside the worm farming bin. This can make or break the farm. It increases air flow. It provides plenty of carbon rich supplements. It helps soak up nitrogen rich acids and brings a good balance to the system. Remember, when adding the bedding think of things that are spongy and porous like peat moss, straw, and corrugated cardboard (no glossy cardboard). I believe the browner (more organic) the cardboard is, the better it is for the worms. Stay away from bleached/processed whites only if you can. Always remember that you cannot add too much bedding. This keeps it aerated and allows plenty of oxygen to flow throughout the bin.

#2 Greens
Many, of what I consider "greens", is a good nitrogen source. Omit of course, the ones we discussed about in the feeding section of the book. Always throw in your greens in moderate amounts to avoid high acid or thermophilic conditions. You should not have to add very much or any water at all to the system, depending on how wet your greens are. I've told you that worm bins do not stink if properly taken care of, but don't put too much broccoli in as this normally has a strong odor. However, if you cover it up pretty good and leave it alone for a while, then you can determine how much to put in each time.

#3 Aeration, moisture, and drainage
 These all kind of go together and depend heavily on gravity, evaporation and the worms ability to move around in the bedding. If water isn't properly draining, then the moisture percentage will rise. If oxygen can't get in, then the bin will become too moist and anaerobic. On the other hand, if it becomes too dry then the food source may dry up along with your worms. The worms may also go into a hibernation or in search for another food source. You'll find out that keeping it moist is much easier than getting it too dry. Adequate ventilation is a must at all times. As gas is emitted from the top of the compost oxygen is sucked in from the bottom. So be sure to put your holes in the right places. Worms themselves are great aerators and they'll help you out whenever possible. Keep in mind the damp sponge theory.
 

 Note: Remember, if you don't have the perfect conditions for your worms don't be overly concerned. Sometimes they will move completely out of the food source and cling to the walls of the worm farming bin. They are somewhat migratory. They'll just move to a section of the bin that they feel comfortable with then move back into the bedding when conditions are right. You'll get the hang of it pretty quick and when you feel comfortable, you'll stop checking on them so much . I've had bins that I haven't maintained for a couple of months and when I lifted the lid, it was business as usual. I'm sure I could have left it for longer, but most of the time I miss my worms and end up lifting the bin every other day to let them know I care. I know. I'm crazy! But you will learn to love your little poopers too.

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Worm Farming Food

Worm farming food is pretty much like a buffet. I'm sure you know how it feels when you can't wait to get to a buffet. You're miserable because you're so hungry, then when you've stuffed yourself you're miserable again. You feel like you've ate your entire weight in food. Well, now you know how a worm feels. Yes! You heard me correctly. Under optimum conditions a worm will eat its entire weight in compost every day. If you have 1 pound of worms then that's 1 pound of poop. That is why red wigglers are called composting worms.

 When it comes to being picky about eating, just about anything that grows from the ground is fair game for worms. After all that is what they were created for, to eat the decaying matter and turn it into food for the next generation of plant life. The most common and practical way of feeding your worms is to give them kitchen scraps along with some kind of carbon rich food. This is what most people start off doing who are just getting in to vermicomposting.

 Worm Farming Food  With Greens

 Greens, like Kitchen scraps, is a great source for worm farming food and should always be something that grows from the ground. These are usually foods like lettuce, corn, broccoli, grains, coffee with the bags, and so on. Keep in mind these foods are high in nitrogen and will need to be balanced with some carbon based material so be sure to put plenty of paper or wood products into the bin. Foods that you put in will sometimes get warm or even hot so it is a good idea to let it set for a week before introducing it to the worms. The last thing you  need is for all your worms to crawl out searching for a new home. When feeding these foods to your worms, do it in moderation. If it's introduced in large amounts too fast then the microbial community will begin to take over faster than what the worms can keep up with. This will cause it to smell and be too wet and it will throw the bin into a thermophilic process. You may also get some unwanted friends called fruit flies. They will not hurt your worms but can be a nuisance in your house when when they come flying out of the bin. Natural kitchen scraps contain a lot of moister already so be cautious. When in doubt, keep it out!

Worms are very resilient. they can go a long time without food. When food is scarce they'll begin to eat their castings till their is no more nutrition left. It is always better to underfeed than to overfeed. One helpful hint when feeding your worms is to put your kitchen scraps in the freezer. This will help break down the cells of the plant turning it into mush. This makes it much easier for the bacteria to do its job so the worms can do their job and you'll have castings almost twice as fast. Now, there have been some who skip the whole process and just blend it. STOP! Leave this to the professionals. This takes practice. Concentrate on getting good at regular kitchen scraps first. If you poor in a liquid slurry the worms will have no room to wiggle around in and it will go anaerobic too quickly. There must be adequate air space for the compost to breath. Do your research.  Keep in mind when adding carbon based foods like coconut coir, cardboard, newspaper, toilet paper (unused of course) etc... will be broken down faster than things like, saw dust, mulch, sticks, and straw to name a few. I've put some small sticks in before, and after months it looked like I put them in yesterday.

Other kitchen scraps that are NOT good for the worm bin are as follows:

Milk or any dairy products

Meat or fats

Oily substances

Citric, or highly acidic fruits. Tomatoes are ok in moderation

spicy or hot peppers or plants. Mild and sweet peppers are ok (I've heard onions in moderation, but this will impede the process)

A good rule of thumb to remember is: If it comes from the ground you can make it brown other than the ones listed above.

Caution: Be careful when you are considering feeding your worms things like saut?ed mushrooms, leftover salads, twice baked potatoes, etc.. Many people don't realize that they've added butter, oils, spices etc.

Worm Farming Food  With Manure

This substance, in my opinion, is the one of the best food source for worm farming food if you are planning on using it on your household plants, garden, or lawn. To get a good understanding consider this. The more complex the microbial community the more complex the soil. The more frequently matter is broken down the more complex it becomes. Plants thrive on this complexity of microorganisms and that is essentially what the plant is feeding on. Just like you and I eat a complex diet so must the worms and the plants.
So why manure...? Consider this.

Cow plucks grass

Teeth break down grass

Cow regurgitates grass and chews it again

Grass is further broken down 4 more times by its digestive compartments

Cow poops and manure is put into a compost pile where bacteria break it down even further

Compost is now fed to worms which break it down one last time

Vermicastings is now ready to feed to plants

 Now you see the potential manure has as a worm farming food and a worm-to-plant food. If you plan to use manure from any animal then you must be sure to compost it to rid the pile of any harmful bacteria or pathogens. You also kill off the seeds from weeds and grasses that the animal ate, therefore avoiding any way of putting them into your garden. Remember, I said that what comes from the ground is ok to give to the worms. It's ok to feed manure to your worms because that animal only ate of what came from the ground as well. Bovine, goats, sheep, rabbits, poultry, and horses are all good examples of herbivores. I'll make an exception for the poultry. (Caution: Definitely compost poultry a good while as this can be high in ammonia and salts)

But what about pig, dog or even human manure (humanure).

I'm sure without a doubt someone is having good success with it, but like I said avoid dairy, oils, and meats because all three species eats them. Also consider that it's a lot harder to kill off harmful diseases from these smelly poopers. It's just best to be safe. If you're interested in composting these wastes for environmental reasons, then you may be interested in Bakashi composting.

Worm Farming Food  With Outside Sources

You can put any tree, plant, grass or shrub in with your worms as long as it's not poisonous, It will not hurt the bin as long as it is not in large quantities. However, like manure it can contain seeds that you may not want in your garden and also, like manure, if it's composted first it will be more complex. But either way you'll be happy with the outcome for your worm farming food. Now, If you would like to feed the worms your lawn, leaves, trees, or plants from your garden then you need to be cautious. Be aware of any herbicides or pesticides that was sprayed on your lawn or maybe near your lawn. When it rains, the water from your neighbors lawn (that's been sprayed by chemicals) may run off onto your lawn or garden. Some of these chemicals can harm your composting worms and you don't want them ending up on your plate either. We have enough in our commercial food already. Hopefully, if you're like me, one of the purposes for raising worms is to replace the many harmful and deadly chemicals that is degrading and killing our soil, depleting it of minerals and healthy organisms worm farming food

Other Thoughts

 Always keep in mind that worms are like you and I. They need a variety on their plate. The more they have to choose from, the more nutrition the plants will have to choose from, like a buffet. There may be some plants that are higher in protozoa than others. If you keep feeding your worms these high protozoan foods then that's all you'll have to put in your garden. Some plants need more bacteria than protozoa and some need more fungi than bacteria. Some plants need everything on the menu. You would be quite unhealthy if all you had to eat was protein. you would succumb to protein poisoning. So mix your worm farming food up a little bit like a good salad.
worm farming food

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Worm Farming Books

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Worm Farming Pests

 Worm farming pests do get in on occasions, so I put together a small list that you may want to refer to from time to time. After reading this page it should come to no surprise. However, you will have questions when you see just what wormed its way into the bin. They may be friend, they may be foe. So here's a list just so you'll know.

Friends (The Annoying kind)

Spider mites (Brown and white) worm farming pests
 It's not entirely uncommon to find some kind of mite in the bin. These creatures are also the Creator's clean up crew. Any time a bin becomes too acidic it can have an over population of mites, mainly the brown or white spider mite. These guys aren't necessarily a problem as much as they are a nuisance. In some cases they can bring balance to your system. When worms become sick or start dying, they will consume them but leave the healthy ones alone. However, if the mites become too populated, they may start to choke out the worms and the worms may look for new residence. There is a popular way among worm ranchers to get rid of these little pests. They seem to love cantaloupe and watermelon. Place the rinds  on top of the compost (after you have enjoyed the fruit of course). Leave it over night and the next day you will have mites covering the rind from top to bottom. Wash the mites off over the sink. Keep repeating the process until you are satisfied with the results. When you're done leave the rinds in for your worms to enjoy.
See a demonstration on removing mites

Fruit flies worm farming pests
Not a friend, neither an ally, just plane annoying. They stay in your house for what seems like weeks-on-end. I currently don't know of any silver bullet for this pest except time. Here is a common method for ending the cycle of nature.
Solution: Fill a small bowl with apple cider vinegar, wrap it with plastic wrap and punch a couple of small holes in it in the middle about the size of a pencil. They will fly into the hole and eventually drown. They seem to be attracted to the acid in the vinegar. This is probably what attracted them to the bin in the first place. Remember to add the food in small layers to avoid rapid bacteria growth and pungent odor. A way to prevent their eggs from hatching can be to freeze your food or boil it before feeding it to the worms. Make sure to burry the food under at least 2 inches of bedding to eliminate any flies from getting in. This will also mask the smell from emanating from the bin.

Sow Bugs (pill bug) worm farming pests
Pay no attention to these guys. They're more friends than anything else. They break down the hard matter like wood and leaves. They're actually perfect for the bin. Now I'm not saying go grab a handful and throw them in, but rather just acknowledge their presence and thank them for the role they play within the cycle of nature.

Solution: If they populate too much then let them know that they've wore out their welcome by tossing them out one by one.

Springtails worm farming pests
These are in fact not a pest but help in the break down of organic material. They have an organ called a fercula (a tail-like appendage) that they hold against their body. when they need to go somewhere they release this organ that catapults them into the air thus being called the springtail. They are literally small enough to fit on the head of a pin. No need to even give these critters a second look.

Solution: N/A

Foes

Ants worm farming pests
Ants for the most part pose no threat to the worm bin environment. A few scouting ants here and there are not an issue but you know that scouts can bring a slew of others competing for the food. So, be on the lookout for scouts.

Solution: A preventive measure you can take on bins inside or out (especially the stackable ones) is to put the legs of the bin into bowls of water. This serves as a mote. Either the ants will drown or avoid the water altogether.

Red Mites worm farming pests
Farmer beware! These are parasites that latch onto the worm and suck the blood right out of it. It will also attach itself and suck fluid from the cocoons. Make no mistake. These are predatory creatures. I have not had experience with these blood suckers. I've only read about them.

Solution: So the only way to get rid of them that I've read is to *See instructions below.

Centipedes and millipedes worm farming pests
At first glance you may mistake these arthropods as a worm because of its long segmented brownish body. They mainly feed on decaying matter but are also known to feed on small insects, other arthropods, and yes, earthworms. I am not sure what makes these bugs feed on worms from time to time but...

Solution: If you see any, it's a good idea to pull them out. Be careful! Some can be poisonous but not detrimental to humans, just irritating. Watch out for those pincers!

Soldier Flies worm farming pests
They live in wetlands and enjoy composts and manures. I'm mainly talking about the maggots in general. They can grow in numbers if not taken care of. they do no harm to the worms and they are great composters. But again, its unneeded competition for food. If you only have a few you might want to wait it out, if not then...

Solution: You'll need to start from scratch. *see instructions below.

Other predators

Earth dwellers worm farming pests
If you plan on having some type of setup outside then you better be prepared for double trouble. Other potential unwanted visitors may include moles and shrews. Moles live underground and burrow through the root systems of plants and grasses.

Solution: Be sure your worm habitat if directly on the ground has a bottom to it like wood, concrete, or metal screening. There's no better delicacy to a mole than worm delight. (Note: If you have some type of flooring make sure it has proper drainage so you don't flood your worms from too much leachate.)

Birds worm farming pests
 INCOMING! INCOMING! That's right! We all know the early bird gets the worm and if they're on to you then you might as well fill your bird feeder with your worms instead.

Solution: The best plan of action is to have all four walls and a roof. Install some kind a chicken wire or put a cover over it. This also applies to those who have backyard chickens or free range (pastured) chickens clucking about.

Other Thoughts

Obviously the list could get quite long but these are some of the biggest threats posed to worms. Most of you will be operating on a small scale and indoors so you won't have to worry too much about unwanted guests. I know what you're thinking. Now you're getting scared about starting your own worm farm. Relax! It's much easier than you think. Once you get the hang of it, the system will practically take care of itself. Many of you will never have a problem, but I  just though it was appropriate for everyone to be aware of extraterrestrials lurking about.

Rebooting instructions
 *In the worst-case-scenario you have no success in managing your pest population then you'll have to start all over by pulling out all your worms, washing them over some type of screen mesh or colander (Guys don't tell the wife), rinse out the bin, and prepare it with fresh bedding.

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Worm Farming Revealed, Free Guide To Raising Worms and Worm Compost.

"You offer solid resources throughout the site and your video showing the DIY Worm Bin proves how easy it can be to get started."

This is a FREE GUIDE that I created to help people grow larger, tastier, and healthier produce (not too mention greener house plants and lawns  as well). By now I'm sure you know it has something to do with worms. Well, your right, but It's not actually these wonderful composters themselves that are beneficial. It's their poop. Yep, you heard me, WORM POOP! (a.k.a. worm castings) Nature's richest and healthiest soil amendment on Earth.

Watch How Fun And Easy This Is!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8hPxy_d_6o

You may not realize it, but everyday we walk on it, play in it, and best of all we eat it. Well, ok not directly, but the plants do. Worms turn dying vegetation into rich plant food for the next generation of plant life. They've been doing it right under our noses for thousands of years.

I remember the first time I started a worm bin I did it all wrong. The bin stunk, I wasted my time and money, and the worms died. You won't make the same mistake I did, because I'll show you how to do it right the first time. Here is a list of the ways it benefited me and how it can benefit you also...

Never spend a dime on harmful chemical fertilizers or worry about burning your plants.

Turn your garbage into a rich soil amendment.

Grow a BIGGER, TASTIER fruit.

Get away from harmful pesticides.

Produce fertilizer twice as fast and more nutritious than any garden composter.

Help Reduce Our Addiction to landfills. Give it to the worms.

Create "Worm Tea" a wonderful power drink for plants.

Reclaim the soil by spreading the fertile truth on it.

And a lot more!

JUST BY FEEDING WORMS YOUR GARBAGE!

I want to reveal "THE DIRT" on how you can  restore your soil to its natural, healthy microbial state, while feeling good about giving back to the land. I've been gardening for years. I've tried chemical fertilizers and pesticides and quite frankly, they scare me!

I'm sure you've heard the stories before. The chemicals do nothing but rob and kill the soil. so, if we were made from the soil, then what are the chemicals doing to us? How did we get to this point in agriculture? Well, I set out on a mission to find a better way for myself and my family. I wanted to find a natural way of growing a rich soil amendment for my garden, lawn, and plants and low and behold I did. It was right under my nose all along. WORMS! Yep, That's exactly why they were created. They are nature's recycling creatures. I guess if nature was designed to do it right, then we can too and at Worm Farming Revealed so can you.

So, roll up your sleeves, put on your gloves, and get ready to get dirty. (actually the worms do all the work all you have to do is feed them...oh, and change their bedding once in a while;-)

Learn All about Worm Farming Now!

Free newsletter below

I update this site regularly so, please subscribe to the free monthly newsletter The Poop Scoop. It contains the latest scoop on what's new at Worm Farming Revealed including tips and techniques that you can only find in the newsletter. so, sign up below.

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Worm Farming Stories

Spraying Worm Tea

I just sprayed my garden plants and soil with worm tea and can I just say, "WOW!"
It continually amazes me at how wonderful my plants respond to the tea.
Look at the spinach!
Also, my corn was barely noticeable up close. Now, it's about 1 1/2 inches tall.
All this was in about a day 1/2 time frame.

Pauly

    Spinach before worm tea            Spinach after worm tea  

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Worm Farming Terms

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Worm Reproduction

Worm reproduction
1. Worm farming Introduction
2. Worm farming terms
3. Worm species which one is best?
4. Worm anatomy
5. Worm reproduction

The reproduction of worms is very unique within the animal kingdom.

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Free Vermicomposting Workshops in Chattanooga

Come see our booth and the NEW Worm Factory® 360 at Crabtreee Farms on Saturday September 19th 9AM-1PM and Sunday 20th 11AM-3PM at the Fall Festival and Plant Sale.  Come learn about composting with worms at our free workshops!  If you start Vermicomposting now – and through the winter, you will be ready for spring seed starting with your own homemade vermicompost! 

Fall Plant Sale

Customers can choose from a wide variety of fall vegetable starts including lettuce mix, spinach, snap peas, and perennial herbs and flowers. Fall is the best time to plant perennials in your garden or floral beds. The winter months allow them to nestle in and prepare to burst forth in the spring.

Fall Festival
Celebrate All Things Local at the Fall Plant Sale. Shop local growers and handmade crafts and visit with outreach booths while basking in cooler weather. There will be free kids activities and farm tours. Kids which enjoy the Petting Zoo on Sunday only. Hay Rides for all ($2 fee per person).
Attend a free workshop:
Saturday 10am, Fall Garden Tips

Saturday 11am, Composting with Worms
Sunday 12:30, Composting with Worms
Sunday 1:30, Fall Garden Tips

DIRECTIONS to Crabtree Farms:

From Downtown
Proceed South on Market Street
Past the Choo Choo, at light take Left on Main Street
Proceed ½ mile to light at Central, take Right
Keep left, Left onto Rossville Blvd.
Go 1 mile on Rossville Blvd.
Right on East 30th Street
Stay on East 30th Street, wind through residential neighborhood
East 30th Dead Ends at Crabtree Farm
The gate will be closed but not locked. Please close it behind you.
Drive up to Barn!

From 1-24
Take I-24 into Chattanooga to the Rossville Boulevard South exit
Go less than 1 mile south on Rossville Blvd. to East 30th Street
Right on East 30th Street
Stay on East 30th Street, wind through residential neighborhood
East 30th Dead Ends at Crabtree Farm
The gate will be closed but not locked. Please close it behind you.
Drive up to Barn!

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best compost bin, build compost bin, homemade compost bins

The best compost bin is a wormbin. Come on- you made it to a worm composting website. I am a worm farmer and of course I truly believe in what I do so I highly recommend a worm farm. Why am I so passionate about worms? Composting with them is:
1. NOT space prohibitive
2. NOT stinky
3. Way faster than a heap
4. Worms are cool.

Really: I do both worms and have a tradional pile. My heap works during the warm months but my worms work all year long. My heap processes the big bulky items and my worms produce me with a finer end product. I feed and water them 4 times a month (weekly) and they eat, breed and poop. What a life! What are you waiting for? Start a worm farm today.

Back from Best Compost bin to composting basics page

Back from Best Compost Bin to wormbincomposting.com

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El Salvador?

by Betsy
(El Salvador)

Hi,
I am currently living in El Salvador and would like to start a worm bin. Are you able to ship abroad or do you have any connections with central american worm farmers?
If not do you know if I can bring them on a plane with me?
Thanks,
Betsy

No, I do not ship internationally, and I do not know of any farmers that do. you can try findworms.com to see if you can find a worm supplier that way. And no you cannot take worms on a plane.

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Composting and Flies

It is getting warm outside and it is breeding season for flies. It is always breeding season for flies but it is super-breeding season for flies right now. Every type of nasty fly and gnat is attracted to your compost pile.

This is one of the worst parts of composting with worms. The flies lay eggs in the food you placed in the compost bin or bed and more flies are born.

A very simple remedy is to bury the food. Place the scraps a couple of inches beneath the bedding and use a new location each time you add more scraps. The flies can’t burrow and need to touch the food to lay eggs in it. This will mean more food for your worms and many fewer flies.

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composting basics, compost how to make, composting methods

This article will discuss Composting Basics. Although I strongly prefer worm composting (thus the website), there are other methods that appeal to many people. Such as: traditional pile, bokashi and trenching.

I must first start with vermicomposting, using worms to compost is odor free and not space prohibitive. Browse all through this website for more information on worm composting.

Traditional piles have their advantages - for example - a pile can process a lot of materials but there are also challenges: need for increased space, critters (like possums/rats) and odors. When you are doing a tradional pile type, you must have the guidelines to be successful.

Read this article "Traditional Pile VS Worm Bins"

Bokashi is a method that uses a yogurt like culture to process your scraps. An advantage of this method is that you can process almost all items, even meat and dairy.

Trench Composting is a super simple method of digging a hole or trench and burying your scraps. A big down side to this is time and dogs. It takes a while for the scraps to break down AND dogs will dig up the goodies if you don't bury them deep enough.

What is the

Best Compost Bin? I hope this article helps you decide which composting method is right for you.

One more thing you need is a kitchen compost pail . I tried operating out of plastic bags to collect the scraps and it gets really nasty. A collection pail will make your live easier, trust me.

Once you decide which composting method is right for you, it is time to build a bin . All you have left to do is start making COMPOST!

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free composting class, free worm composting class, online composting course

One of the cities here in Texas has developed a free composting class as an online interactive course.

I am so excited about it. BUT picky me has some little things I disagree with. (These are my opinions)
1. The bin they demonstrate will only accomodate up to a 1/2 pound of worms
2. I do not suggest adding soil or calcium to your bin.
3. I do not suggest newspaper as a starter bedding. I suggest using a starter mix.
Thanks again to the City of Plano.

Click here to go directly to the Plano course

I hope you enjoy it and if you have any questions, please feel free to use the contact me form below.

I also offer an online course, is complementary when you buy worms from me or it is $4.99 by itself. Click on the button on the left navigation bar to go to BigTex Worms ecourse.

And don't forget to sign up for the forum and newsletter. Both to the left also. Happy Worming! Big Tex Worms

Back from Free Composting class to Worm Composting Class Back from Free Composting Class to wormbincomposting.com

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Fatten Your Worms

I’ve read a great deal about how red worms(Esenia Fetida) are not good enough to be used a a bait worm.   I disagree.  Red Worms (Esenia Fetida) are a great bait worm and they are easy to grow and can be quite attractive to fish if you fatten them up with the right fattener.

If you pull a red worm right out of a pile of manure it might not be too tempting to fish, but if you fatten it with a homemade fattener that I’m going to show you how to make then the fish will coming biting and you be a happy camper…or fisherman.

Worm fattener does exactly what it sounds like it does, it fattens worms but it also changes the taste of the worms in such a way that fish actually find them more attractive when used as bait.

This is what you will need:

Chicken Food Egg Laying Pellets-

Pellets are better than the powdered stuff because the powdered stuff usually has chunks of corn that are not broken down enough.  The pellets are reduced to a powder and then formed into pellets.

Powdered Milk

Wheat or Rice Bran

Wheat Flour

Agricultural Lime

Rabbit Pellets (alfalfa pellets)

Get a big bowl or pot

Mix in 5 Parts of the chicken food.

Add 2 parts of rice or wheat bran

Add one part of each of the other ingredients.

To simplify, If you add 5 cups of chicken food then you will add 2 cups of wheat bran and 1 cup of each of the other ingredients.

You can mix these together and use them dry on the fattening beds.  A fattening bed is a bed of adult worms that you wish to fatten.

Moisten the bed first and then add the food dry to the top.

You can also use a blender and blend all of the mixed ingredients into a fine powder that you sprinkle over the bed.

Another way is to moisten the mixture and feed the worms by laying patties of the fattener on top of the bed.  Cover the top of the bed with some landscaping cloth and the worms will come up and eat themselves into fat bait worms.

Enjoy you fishing.  I’d like to hear from you if you have other fattener recipes or if you use this one.

Thanks for stopping in.

Ken

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big tex worms, bigtex worms

More about me than you want to know. How I became Big Tex Worms

I started my worm composting journey in late 2003. Several reasons contributed but the two primary ones were: my daughter and my love for outdoors.

My daughter Emma was diagnosed with asthma in 2002. After hours and hours of research, I discovered that transitioning to an organic diet would help her symptoms. But organic food is very expensive so I began again researching to find ways to curb the expense.

I was raised in the country, not on a farm, but my grandparents always had a large garden. We grew up reaping the delicious benefits of the homegrown veggies. And as a child, one of my favorite pastimes was helping them in the garden. Something I yearned for as an adult.

But here I was in suburban Texas in a near 0 lot line. How could I make gardening work? The two solutions I found were: Worms and container then later square foot gardening. I discovered I could have a small bin of worms, which would in turn give me organic fertilizer for my garden.

Some 7 years later, I have over 100 pounds of worms (not on my 0 lotline but at a local farm), large square foot beds and I am loving it. I now have 2 daughters who help mommy with the worms. My motivation was for my family but it now has evolved into helping other families reach similar goals. And thanks to SBI's sitesell website, I can do it globally.
And that is the story of Big Tex Worms!

Liz
Texas Worm Chick

Click to join wormbincomposting

Misc. info: Liz lives in Texas with her Firefighter/Paramedic Husband, 2 daughters, 15 chickens and some 100k worms. When she is not playing with the worms, she is either homeschooling her daughters or working part time as a RN, lactation consultant at a local hospital.

To God be the glory, great things He has done!

I consider SBI (Sitesell) to be an answer to prayer. No, it is not a get rich quick scheme. SBI has given me the tools to start two websites and invest in my future. It takes a LOT of work. If you have a topic that you are passionate about, then this might be for you. It will likely NOT replace your income in the next year but maybe in the next 2 years. Within 2 months of starting the website it was paying for itself and within 3 months I made a small profit, I have had this site up for a little over 6 months and I now make more a month than I did in a year before I started the site.
My goal is to replace my PART time (real job) income by December 2010.***Update**** I reached my goal early, as of August 1, 2010, this website is providing enough income for me to drop one of my part time jobs! The very best part about it, is that all my hard work goes to work for me 24 hours a day all over the world.

Want to learn more?

I don't like to beat around the bush. SBI is a full meal deal offer. You pay $299 and get all the tools you need to build a website, it really is the full deal, no hidden costs. It is renewed annually. I shopped around and similar services are well over $5000, yep that is a huge savings. Shop and compare, you will come back. Compare service to service.

Here is some more information: (click on the above banner)

I started this website in January of 2010 and as of today March I made $200 on the website and April I made $300. AND in the last 2 days I have made $100. Things are looking good. But keep in mind, this is my second website and I did a LOT of learning in the 5 months prior to starting this website, on my 1st website. Again, not a get rich quick.

Thinking of MAYBE starting a website? Send me an email and I will help you decide if it is a good idea or not.

Back from Big Tex Worms to askthelactationconsultant.com

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How many worms for a family of 5?

by Teresa Myers
(Ardmore, OK)

I have a family of 5. Do I need to order 2 starter bags?

Also, I'm thinking about using an old horse trough for my worm bed. It doesn't have air holes, but it does have a valve for drainage. I plan to cover it with either plywood or a rubber mat. Do you think this would be a good choice for a bed? I could drill holes in the cover if necessary, but really don't want to put holes in the trough, as it is kinda of expensive.

Answer from BigTex Worms
To answer your first question, no you do not need two starter bags. I would say one starter bag plus a pound of worms will give you enough worms to digest about 1-2 pounds of scraps/day. It may not quite be enough to compost all your scraps but within 3 months it will be.
Your second question. How big is the horse trough exactly? If it is what I think it is , it is about 2 feet deep, 2 feetish wide and about 5 feet long. The only way I would use it is if you can put in some kind of divider to section it off into 2 or 3 compartments. That way when one gets full you can remove the divider so the worms can move over and start on the new bedding/food in the other side. This will allow you to harvest part of the bin. Otherwise, a large bin like that will be a major undertaking to harvest AND the contents will get really mucky/fudgy in something that large. Also airflow is VERY important or the bin can overheat and get anerobic. So my suggestion is to have the trough in an area or a barn where you dont need a hard lid. Somewhere you can simply have a cloth lid or a screen for a topper.
Hope this answers all your questions. If not, ask me more...
Also, if you do decide to order a starter plus a pound, I will give you a discount and send you a paypal invoice to pay. Just send me a note through the contact me form.
Liz

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Cocofibre Worm Composting in West Africa

by Stephen Dapaah
(England UK)

I am planning to return to Ghana West Africa to start a composting factory there using coconut fibre. I will be grateful for some advice.

Same principles as with any worm composting. I have many pages on the basics of worm composting as well as a free online and a paid online course for you to learn more. Browse through each page of my site and if you still have questions, get back with me.

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Free Vermicompost talk in Chattanooga

For more information or products check out http://www.thompsonwormfarm.com/

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Composting Horse Manure, compost manure piles

Composting Horse Manure has its challenges. You can compost it using the pile method or with red wiggler worms (aka manure worms). If you are going to use the pile method, it is important to layer the manure with plenty of fiber material like straw, leaves or cardboard. And to keep the pile wet. Using this simple method, it will take approximately 6 months for the manure to become usable compost.

You may choose to use to composting worms help speed up the process. But if you do, there are several tips that will help you succeed.

Rinse the poop to remove as much urine as possible before adding to pile/bin (most of the time horse manure is mixed with straw or shavings which will absorb the urine) worms dont like urineMake sure the horses have not be DEWORMED with a chemical dewormer, if they have then you need to let the manure sit for at least 8 weeks before adding to bin.fresh manure will heat, so let it sit for 3-4 weeks before adding to bin (I always let mine sit for 2 months before adding)Do not broadcast feed the poop in a worm bin, just in case it is "bad" or the worms dont like it, just feed in 1/4-1/2 of the bin so they have somewhere to go if they dont like it.

Composting equine poo can be extremely beneficial to your garden, the end results are nutrient rich compost that will nourish well.

Back from Composting Horse Manure to wormbincomposting.com

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garden fertilizer, vermicompost, organic fungicide, organic pesticide

There are many organic choices for garden fertilizer. You can choose a ready to go retail product available at most garden centers. (even wally world has organic choices now) But a better choice is using organic compost as your fertilizer. And being a worm farmer, I recommend vermicompost (worm poop).

When planting your garden, you can use compost in your planting mix. I do and mix it with coconut fiber, some may choose to mix it with peat moss.

After planting , you can make compost tea and then apply it as a foliar spray or root drench.

If you choose to use vermicompost, it works as your fertilizer, but it also works as an organic fungicide and organic pesticide. Yes, it does everything. And the the red wriggler worms do all the work.

Want to learn more about worm composting?

Making the decision not to use harsh chemicals on your lawn and garden can make a positive impact on your health and the health of your soil. I made this decision soon after my firstborn was diagnosed with asthma, to help reduce her exposure to harmful chemicals.

Back from Garden Fertilizer to Worm Articles page

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gardening blogs, diy tips for gardening, composting instructions

Gardening blogs : your one stop source for up to date news on organic gardening and worm composting.

Whether you came here looking for information on worm composting, general composting instructions or diy gardening tips, you will find it here.

I will post the latest news related to all the above topics right here. I will scour the internet and find the best blog posts and news just for you.

Here is a blog post with an excellent video included on how to grow an organic vegetable garden. Perfect for you guys who like to watch rather than read. . Click here to read it This is a video of an hilarious worm composting horror story of worms escaping. In the same blog post there is a video of bokashi composting as well. Click here to view it.

The Regional Food Bank of Oklahoma's Urban Harvest program was launched to grow healthy, organic foods on behalf of people whose next meal isn't assured. Read more about Urban Harvest here Worms at the hospital? Yep, Many businesses in the Upstate (Greenville, SC) have gone to great lengths to go green, whether it's starting employee recycling programs, or shifting tons of landfill waste into recycling bins. Now, a local hospital system is taking it one step further. Read the full story here.

I hope you enjoy this page featuring gardening blogs and news on organic gardening and worm composting. If you have a blog post you would like featured here Please use the contact me form below to send me the link.

Back from Gardening blogs to wormbincomposting.com

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Ants in compost bin

by Brendan.behan
(Dublin)

Hi,
does it matter if there are ants in the compost bin?
Answer from BigTex Worms
Ants are usually a sign that the compost bin is too dry. If you wet it down good for a couple days, they will leave.
They are not harmful to the worms but they are a nuisance to us humans tending the beds.
I have tried using diatomaceous earth with a little success but wetting the bin has worked the best for my bins in the past.

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Do worms prefer fruits or veggies?

Do worms compost better in vegetables or fruit??

Hmmm. Interesting question. In my observation, worms like both but prefer certain varieties of each. I would say their favorite vegetable is without a doubt sweet potatoes (cooked) and their favorite fruit is watermelon but cantelope comes in a strong second. If I had to choose one over the other (which I would never do) I would choose feeding fruits.
The reason I think they should get fruits and vegetables is to enrich the final product: the castings. So that it is more nurtient rich for your garden.
Great question!
Liz
BigTex Worms

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Garden Rant Takes Over the World

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I Left My Worms in San Francisco

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Sunday New York Times

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Sam James, Worm Hunter

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Earthworms Eat Invasive Plants

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Palouse Worm Gets National Attention

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Breaking news: Giant Palouse worm found in Idaho

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Be Good to Your Worms

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Ice Worms!

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More Organic Gardening in Cuba

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A Shout-Out to Yelm

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Extinct taxonomists?

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Honey, what's for dinner?

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Meet Me in Seattle

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Oddly Fascinating Animated Video...

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Invite a Worm to Dinner

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Earthbound Farms Loves Earthworms

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Amateur Microscopy

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The Missing Tiller

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More Praise for Earthworms

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Now All I Need is a Title

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The Origin of Feces

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Worming My Way to a New Blog

tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15533073.post115110206347322386..comments2009-11-18T21:07:02.039-08:00Amy Stewartnoreply@blogger.comBlogger5125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15533073.post-49805219727007033102009-11-18T21:07:02.039-08:002009-11-18T21:07:02.039-08:00This is a great post.. Very informative... I can see that you put a lot of hard work on your every post that's why I think I'd come here more often. Keep it up! By the way, you can also drop by my blogs. They're about Vegetable Gardening and Composting. I'm sure you'd find my blogs helpful too.Vegetable Gardenerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10461477513413961088noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15533073.post-36139688801267299412009-08-13T07:18:34.586-07:002009-08-13T07:18:34.586-07:00Hi there,I visited your blogpost wow! very interesting.I am Michel Moore,a community member at http://www.bgi-usa.com BGI is the world’s largest wholesale bougainvillea grower selling to the Trade Only. BGI products are available through your local garden center or landscape professional.Select items are available in our online Shop. I 'd like to talk through email.is it possible to talk during this weekends ?

Best-Regards,
Michel Moore
E-Mail:- bougainvilleausa@gmail.comBougainvilleahttp://www.bgi-usa.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15533073.post-11205314443522940152008-09-13T08:37:00.000-07:002008-09-13T08:37:00.000-07:00Your book sounds fascinating. I'm excited to read about the process of shipping flowers. I understand that all flowers, fruits and vegetables that are imported to the US have to be sprayed with insecticides or fungicides even if they are grown organically.


Dagny
www.onnotextiles.com
organic clothingDagnywww.onnotextiles.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15533073.post-54161779419527889122008-04-13T14:58:00.000-07:002008-04-13T14:58:00.000-07:00I need some earthworms in my garden and have been preparing them for a new home. However, your site mentioned Gardeners Supply as the source and they don't ship to California. Other ideas please?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15533073.post-69666447939058980862008-03-13T05:35:00.000-07:002008-03-13T05:35:00.000-07:00I agree it is the same with everything petrol to diesel indoor dryer to rotary washing lines blogger to typepad, typepad to wordpress.Julesnoreply@blogger.com

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Raising European Nightcrawlers

RAISING THE AFRICAN NIGHT CRAWLER OR TROPICAL GIANT WORM.Night Crawlers- Breeding for ProfitWhite Cap with crawler, worms, night, earthworm, bugs, cartoon
When it comes to worms, Raising Nightcrawlers, is also one of the most considered for worm composting. Although they’re more preferred as fish bait, and as live worm food for other animals, nightcrawlers can still be considered for composting. Although they don’t mature or reproduce as fast as red wrigglers, they can still do the job.

European Nightcrawlers and others of its kind (African and Canadian) are usually referred to as ‘Super Redworms’. But other than that, they make sumptuous treats for fish, turtles, exotic pets, and some reptiles. They’re known for their incessant twisting, and moving about on fish hooks, even when submerged in water. You can always feed them live, or have them cut into smaller pieces.

And just like their worm cousins, the red worms, the nightcrawler worms aren’t that difficult to raise. To achieve good results when raising your nightcrawlers, you must first provide them a good worm bedding (you can either make it or buy this at the market). So, as soon as you’ve gotten your fill of worm bedding (can be a mixture of peat moss and coconut coir), you can pour this in the bin, at just half full. Add some water afterwards but make sure to pour in just enough to make the bedding moist (and not soaking wet). After this, start putting in your nightcrawlers, and then put in some presoaked newspaper shreds or cardboard afterwards. Take note that you’ll have to place these on top of the bedding.

Now, what you should do next is to check the temperature of the area where you’ve placed your worm bin. Of course, placing your worms in a temperature they favor will make them thrive better. The best temperatures for them would be 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. You’ll also have to maintain a bedding that has a pH level of 6.0 to 7.0.

Also take note that aside from your worm bedding being moist (should be as damp as a wrung out sponge), it should also be kept loose. A loose and moist bedding will allow them to burrow comfortably. You’d like to keep it that way, rather than drown them from over watering their bin. Anyway, when it comes to feeding nightcrawlers, take note that they should not be fed for the first 2 to 3 days. Get them settled in their new home first. And soon after this, you may now start feeding them. You can put in all sorts of organic wastes; and they’ll eat what Red Wigglers eat. Just make sure that you don’t feed them stuff that has dairy or meat on them. Doing so will lead to a smelly bin. Plus, it will also attract unwanted pests to the worm bin.

When you’re feeding your nightcrawlers (you can feed them at least twice a week), it’s best not to mix the food wastes on the bedding. Keep the food buried in the ground for about two inches deep. This way, you’re worms will definitely have to work themselves up to eat.

After some time, they’ll be able to produce their eggs; and will be able to multiply in number soon after. And aside from making good use of them, you can actually make a profit out of selling nightcrawlers. There is a sure market of commercial growers and fishermen who are just ready to buy nightcrawlers from you.

GardenWorms.com recommends the 1000 Super Reds or European Nightcrawlers

European Nightcrawlers can make really great composting worms. And unlike red worms, they can still grown as long as 6 inches (five times bigger than red worms)! They’re easy to raise, are tolerable to hot and cold temperatures, and is an excellent choice for fish bait. Order yours now!

To know more about the product, check the 1000 Super Reds or European Nightcrawlers here.

Related posts:

Feeding Red Wiggler Worms to PetsRaising Earthworms SuccessfullyAll about Nightcrawler WormsCommon Problems in Raising Red Wigglers

Tags: European Nightcrawlers, super red worms

This entry was posted on Sunday, August 15th, 2010 at 6:33 am and is filed under Worm Composting. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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Lawn Pest Classifications and Management

When your lawn is not maintained as it should be, then there are chances that it can be infested with different kinds of lawn pest. Having these insects present in your lawn will definitely add on to your work. But you can start controlling them with some lawn care, as soon as you identify what type they are. So to learn more on this subject, you can further read below.

You’ll know they’re present when the colors of the leaves start to lose their green pigment (leaving only white spots). You’ll also see white and fine webs attached on the leaves and stems. You can get rid of them by simply spraying some insecticidal soap, or some miticides, for about 3 times, for 3 day periods.

Cinch bugs are lawn pests that are usually responsible for the irregular yellow patches that can be seen on the lawn (shows up during the dry summer weather). So to kill these insects and to control the damage, use an organic pest control that is specifically designed for Chinch Bug use. Also treat your lawn once every three weeks until it shows improvements.

Grubs are also lawn pests, and can cause dead turf patches during early spring, and late summer. So to be able to get rid of these pests you can use a specialized organic pest control for Grubs like the Milky Spore Grub Control, during the previously mentioned seasons.

Now, another kind of lawn pest are the Moles and Voles. Signs of their invasions usually show in lawns that have already formed long trails of hollow ridges of soils. You’ll know these pests are present when you start to notice holes underground, that usually serve as tunnels. So what you can do next is to control the population of soil insects (or use an organic pest control for moles like the Holy Moley- Mole Repellent). In this way, the moles and voles will be left with nothing else to eat. You can also choose to use spike-straps for when these are present in your turf.

These insects are present when the leaves in your lawn start to curl, and then wither soon after. These insects also leave out a sticky and transparent material that may also attract ants to the plant. So what you can do to treat these affected areas by Aphids, is to pump water directly on these insects. Or if you want to do it in a less harsh manner, you can always use insecticidal soaps or an organic insect killer (not an organic weed killer) to get rid of them.

Lawn Pest 6: Lace bugs are pests that can also be seen present in lawns. They’re usually the ones responsible for plants that look not-so lively anymore; and for leaves to have spots on them due to color loss. You may be able to rid of these insects by simply spraying some insecticide on the foliage’s base. You may apply this organic insect control three times, for 7 to 10 day periods.

So now that you have some information on lawn pest classifications and management tips, you’ll know what to do when these insects become present in your turf. So start caring for your lawns, and keep it maintained always.

Yard Net Lawn & Yard Insect Repellant is a product that is eco-friendly and is all organic. It is a certified product that you can safely use around your family and pets. It is also made with botanical oils, and has a fresh scent to it. And not only that, you can use these on your lawns, on landscaped areas, and shrubs. Purchase yours now, and get your Yard Net Lawn & Yard Insect Repellant with a 100% money-back guarantee.
To know more about the product, check the Yard Net Lawn & Yard Insect Repellent here.

Related posts:

Use Natural Pest Control for Houseplants

Tags: garden pest, kinds of garden pests, lawn pest, organic pest control, pest killer, pesticide

This entry was posted on Thursday, August 5th, 2010 at 5:35 am and is filed under pest control. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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Worm Farm Instructions: How to Make a Worm Farm

As you all know, earthworms can be used in several ways. You can use them as live bait (or as animal feed), sell them for a profit (you can definitely post earthworms for sale), or use them for vermicomposting (where you’ll be able to get a new batch of worms and some organic fertilizer in the form of worm castings). So, if you happen to be a worm enthusiast, and is very much interested in setting up and knowing How to Make a Worm Farm, then here are a few Worm Farm Instructions that you can follow, to get you through the process.

Well, you can start by buying red composting worms, as garden worms aren’t much preferred when it comes to composting. Anyway, the first thing that you must do is to set-up your worm bin system (you may also want to consider getting those readily available composters for sale). You can either buy a box or a plastic container for your worms. This will be the bin for where to keep them (this will serve as their new home). Your worm bin will also be able to help you contain your worms, as well as give the worms space, for where they’ll be kept safe and warm. Of course, let’s not forget about drilling holes on the top, base, and sides of the bin. This will provide proper air circulation for the bin; as well as a drainage system, for where the worm compost deposits can be collected (may turn out in the form of worm farm compost tea, or as a liquid garden organic pest control).

What you should do next for your earthworm farming project is to put in some organic stuff inside the bin. You’re going to have to provide your worms a nice and damp bedding; as well as some organic food supply. But first, when building a worm farm, you should fill half of the bin with some shredded and presoaked newspaper (or cardboard). You may add in some potting soil afterwards; followed with some water. Now, the worm bedding should be kept moist. But make sure that it isn’t left soaking wet, as this may spoil the contents of the bin (and we wouldn’t want that). You should know that a moist surrounding for your worms will keep them happy. Worms happen to be moist at all times, since they breathe through their skin (they will die if they were left to thrive in a dry environment).

Now, you’re going to have to put in your compost pals inside their bin, when starting a worm farm. Put in kitchen scraps and garden wastes inside the bin, as these will serve as their food supply. You’ll also need to keep your worm bin in an area where there is room temperature (worms may tend to freeze to death if they were to be stored in cold spaces). Do take note about not overfeeding your worms too. So, avoid putting in excess food for them, as leftovers may decompose, which may then cause some odor build-up later on (it’ll be something that your worms won’t like, and is something that might attract unwanted pests). You can start breeding, raising, and harvesting a new batch of red worms after a few months.

From this overview, apply these simple steps, and use these information much like a worm farming guide to making a worm farm. These can be a simplified form to giving Worm Farm Instructions on How to Make a Worm Farm.

Thinking about making more than a hobby out of breeding and raising worms? Fret no more! We’re here to provide you nothing but great Worm Farm Kit variations. Our worm kits come with 1,000 red wriggler worms, a starter bedding, a 3-month feed supply for your worms, a moisture retaining-burlap, and more! Order yours today.

To know more about the product, check the Worm Farm Kit here.

Related posts:

Using Worm Farm Kits

Tags: building a worm farm, composters for sale, composting worms, earthworm farming, earthworms for sale, making a worm farm, starting a worm farm, worm farm compost, worm farming guide

This entry was posted on Wednesday, September 15th, 2010 at 12:23 pm and is filed under Worm Composting. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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What is Leaf Mulching?

Leaves, usually termed as Gardener’s Gold, are not only used for composting. There’s actually another alternative to making good use of leaves, and that is through leaf mulching. Now, as soon as the leaves are shredded, you can immediately use this as leaf mulch, compared to the process that composting leaves have to go through (usually takes a longer time for the leaves to turn into compost).So, how do you make mulching leaves? Well, if you want to mulch leaves, it’ll be a good idea to have a leaf shredder that you can immediately use, to help save you from shredding the leaves by hand (or through other sluggish means); or save you time rather. You can also consider leaf raking, as this also helps in shredding the leaves during the process. You can possibly mow them over a couple of times too if you want. Also, it’s better to use leaves that are already in a shredded state, rather than using whole ones. Whole leaves are likely to mat in the process; and takes time before it gets really absorbed by the soil.Also, this mulching process also proves to be another cost-effective option, as the leaves that you’ll be using are all free for the taking. You can probably collect as much from the ground, as soon as they fall from the tree/s. You can also consider using garden leaf collectors, like a leaf sweeper perhaps, to help speed up the gathering of these leaves.Anyway, leaf mulchers also work as a good compost material. Apart from that, mulch from leaves also helps in filling in the soil with the nutrients that it needs. Mulch made from leaves are also safe to use since they’re rarely used with any type of chemical stimulants. But using mulch in this composition also has it disadvantages. Not only does it require a lot of effort to do, it also creates a breeding ground for insect activity. Now, if you weren’t able to maintain the mulch on your garden or lawn, then it can possibly result to molding and bad odors. Of course, if you weren’t able to spread it properly on the ground, then it can also be blown away by strong winds. But if you were to give it much attention, then for sure, your trees, shrub beds, gardens will be able to benefit from it. This type of mulch can also help oppress weeds from growing any further. So it can definitely be made into an organic weed control as well.You can also keep the leaves inside a rotating compost bin as soon as they’re ready for use. Of course, this process of making your own organic fertilizer can also help you save money, so it’s that rewarding. And you’ll no longer have to buy those fertilizers in the market, or even resort to using those chemically based products for your plants and soil. You’ll be happy to know that given some time, you’ll be able to see the results brought about by your leaf mulching activity. You’ll notice soon enough (you’ll see great changes in your garden or lawn) that the mulch from leaves has finally been absorbed into the soil.GardenWorms.com recommends the Lawn SweeperLet the Lawn Sweeper help you save time and energy. So instead of raking the leaves off of the ground, use the Lawn Sweeper as another alternative. And it’ll only take 4 bolts to assemble it! Not only that, it also features 10-inch Precision Molded Plastic Wheels, a Butterfly handle, and a Rear Swivel for easy maneuvering. It also has a removable hamper that allows for easy dumping, and also paves way for a fold away storage.To know more about the product, check the Lawn Sweeper here.

Leaves, usually termed as Gardener’s Gold, are not only used for composting. There’s actually another alternative to making good use of leaves, and that is through leaf mulching. Now, as soon as the leaves are shredded, you can immediately use this as leaf mulch, compared to the process that composting leaves have to go through (usually takes a longer time for the leaves to turn into compost).

So, how do you make mulching leaves? Well, if you want to mulch leaves, it’ll be a good idea to have a leaf shredder that you can immediately use, to help save you from shredding the leaves by hand (or through other sluggish means); or save you time rather. You can also consider leaf raking, as this also helps in shredding the leaves during the process. You can possibly mow them over a couple of times too if you want. Also, it’s better to use leaves that are already in a shredded state, rather than using whole ones. Whole leaves are likely to mat in the process; and takes time before it gets really absorbed by the soil.

Also, this mulching process also proves to be another cost-effective option, as the leaves that you’ll be using are all free for the taking. You can probably collect as much from the ground, as soon as they fall from the tree/s. You can also consider using garden leaf collectors, like a leaf sweeper perhaps, to help speed up the gathering of these leaves.

Anyway, leaf mulchers also work as a good compost material. Apart from that, mulch from leaves also helps in filling in the soil with the nutrients that it needs. Mulch made from leaves are also safe to use since they’re rarely used with any type of chemical stimulants. But using mulch in this composition also has it disadvantages. Not only does it require a lot of effort to do, it also creates a breeding ground for insect activity. Now, if you weren’t able to maintain the mulch on your garden or lawn, then it can possibly result to molding and bad odors. Of course, if you weren’t able to spread it properly on the ground, then it can also be blown away by strong winds. But if you were to give it much attention, then for sure, your trees, shrub beds, gardens will be able to benefit from it. This type of mulch can also help oppress weeds from growing any further. So it can definitely be made into an organic weed control as well.

You can also keep the leaves inside a rotating compost bin as soon as they’re ready for use. Of course, this process of making your own organic fertilizer can also help you save money, so it’s that rewarding. And you’ll no longer have to buy those fertilizers in the market, or even resort to using those chemically based products for your plants and soil. You’ll be happy to know that given some time, you’ll be able to see the results brought about by your leaf mulching activity. You’ll notice soon enough (you’ll see great changes in your garden or lawn) that the mulch from leaves has finally been absorbed into the soil.

Let the Lawn Sweeper help you save time and energy. So instead of raking the leaves off of the ground, use the Lawn Sweeper as another alternative. And it’ll only take 4 bolts to assemble it! Not only that, it also features 10-inch Precision Molded Plastic Wheels, a Butterfly handle, and a Rear Swivel for easy maneuvering. It also has a removable hamper that allows for easy dumping, and also paves way for a fold away storage.

To know more about the product, check the Lawn Sweeper here.

Related posts:

Composting Leaves

Tags: garden leaf collectors, leaf mulch, leaf mulchers, leaf raking, leaf sweeper, mulching leaves, rotating compost bin

This entry was posted on Friday, August 20th, 2010 at 3:34 am and is filed under Worm Composting. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

View the original article here

Worm Farming- Making Your Own Worm Farm

Intro to Worm Farming

Organic Pest Control for Grub Damage

If you suddenly see patches of yellow spots on your once-beautiful lawn, then you’ve probably got some Grub Damage currently taking place. But before you get right ahead into resolving this problem, it’s best to determine if it’s really Grubs that are destroying your lawn. And if you happen to confirm this, then you can always resort into using some organic pest control that can be used to kill grubs. You won’t have to find the need to use chemical insecticides, as there are many organic alternative that can be used to poison the grub, without harming you, your family, and your pets.So what are grubs exactly? Well, this grub worm (larval stage) actually has three kinds: (the adult stage) the Japanese Beetles, the June Beetles, and the Chafer grubs. You’ll be able to identify them right away if you see an an off-white skinned insect, with a dark head. Grubs are also usually seen formed in a C-shape position.White grubs like eating grass roots, which then leads to the grass dying, and the lawn patching (usually brown patches). Patches on the lawn will only turn yellow (will feel a bit spongy when you try to walk on the affected areas) if the grub have greatly damaged it. You’ll also know that there’s been a lot of damage if you start to effortlessly lift up patches of grass on your lawn.So what can you do to control grubs? If your lawn has about a few grubs per square foot, then it’s not much of a problem. But if there were more (like more than ten per square foot), then you’ll have to resort to having the lawn treated right away.Killing grubs would be best done when they’re still young, as they will be easier to manage. You’ll know that you’ve got some young grubs present when they start showing up between the months of March to April, or mid-July to September. You can get rid of grubs during these months (kill them during this timeframe so that you’ll still have them in their smaller sizes).You can also practice some preventive measures before resorting to using some organic grub control. You can start by taking care of your lawn to lessen the damages that may further harm it. What you can do also is to not water your lawn regularly. Beetles actually prefer thriving in areas that have grass, and has a constantly moist soil.Now, if things do worsen, then you can start treating these pests with some organic pesticides. You can use an organic alternative to eradicating these grubs, by starting with a combination of Milky Spore Grub Control (only apply once), and Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes. The nematodes will be the one responsible in getting the Milky Spore spread out. You can apply some Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes again, after about six months (starting from the time that you first applied it). This will help control further grub damage and growth on your lawn; and to also scatter Milky Spore. Another option for you to use would be is Grub Beater (has neem as an effective ingredient. Use this if the grub infestation has gotten much worse. Although there are more options to organic grubicides or organic pest control rather, they may be hard to get a hold of. So it’ll be a good idea to look them up online (try typing in organic insectides).GardenWorms.com recommends the Milky Spore Grub ControlGet the Milky Spore Grub Control for only $29.95! It’s the safest material that can definitely be used to control grub existence on your lawn (targets and discriminately works in eliminating white grubs). Not only that, it will provide your lawn an on-guard protective blanket; and will not harm any beneficial insects, humans or pets that may get into contact with it.To know more about the product, check the Milky Spore Grub Control here.

If you suddenly see patches of yellow spots on your once-beautiful lawn, then you’ve probably got some Grub Damage currently taking place. But before you get right ahead into resolving this problem, it’s best to determine if it’s really Grubs that are destroying your lawn. And if you happen to confirm this, then you can always resort into using some organic pest control that can be used to kill grubs. You won’t have to find the need to use chemical insecticides, as there are many organic alternative that can be used to poison the grub, without harming you, your family, and your pets.

Well, this grub worm (larval stage) actually has three kinds: (the adult stage) the Japanese Beetles, the June Beetles, and the Chafer grubs. You’ll be able to identify them right away if you see an an off-white skinned insect, with a dark head. Grubs are also usually seen formed in a C-shape position.

White grubs like eating grass roots, which then leads to the grass dying, and the lawn patching (usually brown patches). Patches on the lawn will only turn yellow (will feel a bit spongy when you try to walk on the affected areas) if the grub have greatly damaged it. You’ll also know that there’s been a lot of damage if you start to effortlessly lift up patches of grass on your lawn.

If your lawn has about a few grubs per square foot, then it’s not much of a problem. But if there were more (like more than ten per square foot), then you’ll have to resort to having the lawn treated right away.

Killing grubs would be best done when they’re still young, as they will be easier to manage. You’ll know that you’ve got some young grubs present when they start showing up between the months of March to April, or mid-July to September. You can get rid of grubs during these months (kill them during this timeframe so that you’ll still have them in their smaller sizes).

You can also practice some preventive measures before resorting to using some organic grub control. You can start by taking care of your lawn to lessen the damages that may further harm it. What you can do also is to not water your lawn regularly. Beetles actually prefer thriving in areas that have grass, and has a constantly moist soil.

Now, if things do worsen, then you can start treating these pests with some organic pesticides. You can use an organic alternative to eradicating these grubs, by starting with a combination of Milky Spore Grub Control (only apply once), and Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes. The nematodes will be the one responsible in getting the Milky Spore spread out. You can apply some Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes again, after about six months (starting from the time that you first applied it). This will help control further grub damage and growth on your lawn; and to also scatter Milky Spore. Another option for you to use would be is Grub Beater (has neem as an effective ingredient. Use this if the grub infestation has gotten much worse. Although there are more options to organic grubicides or organic pest control rather, they may be hard to get a hold of. So it’ll be a good idea to look them up online (try typing in organic insectides).

Get the Milky Spore Grub Control for only $29.95! It’s the safest material that can definitely be used to control grub existence on your lawn (targets and discriminately works in eliminating white grubs). Not only that, it will provide your lawn an on-guard protective blanket; and will not harm any beneficial insects, humans or pets that may get into contact with it.

To know more about the product, check the Milky Spore Grub Control here.

Related posts:

Lawn Pest Classifications and ManagementThe Difference between Moles and Voles

Tags: Chafer grubs, control grubs, get rid of grubs, grub worm, kill grubs, killing grubs, Milky Spore Grub Control, organic grub control, organic pesticides, white grubs

This entry was posted on Monday, August 23rd, 2010 at 4:46 am and is filed under pest control. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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Composting Leaves

Ever wondered what you can still do with the leaves scattered on your garden, after they’ve fallen from the tree or from your plants? Well, you can still make good use of them. You can make compost out of it, since it can be a good source of nutrients. They’re actually referred to as ‘Gardeners’ Gold’. So, if you’re not thinking about raking them off of your garden just to throw them away, you can always turn them into lawn compost. Composting leaves is actually another alternative to making organic fertilizer; and also a great way into giving your garden a natural enhancement.

Since leaves are fibrous and full of nutrients, these help make the soil’s composition and aeration better. Take note that leaves from plants and trees are usually the recipients of trace minerals that have been gathered from the soil. So composting leaves is really one good way of recycling. You can definitely turn these into valuable compost instead of throwing them away as garbage.

So before you go right ahead in to composting these, you should know that you can compost any type of leaf. You can start by shredding the leaves into smaller pieces (before adding them into an Urban Compost Tumbler for example), as this will help save some space inside the tumbler; and to also minimize the tendency of the leaves to mat. But don’t worry, you don’t have to do this by hand. You can always turn to mowing them over (use the lawn mower), or you can always buy those shredders/chippers from the market. Anyway, when composting your leaves, you should also add into your composter some nitrogen. Nitrogen actually helps your leaves to rot fast. Nitrogen can be in the form of days old manure, dried blood, and some bone meal (also add in some, yard clippings, eggshells, and coffee grounds). And as soon as you’ve combined these materials together, you may now add in some water. Make sure the content’s are left moist and not soaking wet (this will ruin your compost); and also turn your compost, via the compost tumbler, on a daily basis to aerate it. Compost tumblers by the way, helps speed up the process of composting compared to ordinary compost bins.

It would also help to take note the colors of your leaves, as this will also determine the right quantity that you should put into your rotating composter. Green leaves (usually from trees) for example, should only be added in a reasonable quantity. For Red or Yellow leaves, you may put just a few of these inside your eco composter. Brown leaves on the other hand, should not be added into your compost, as these will work better as leaf mold. Other than composting leaves, you can also turn these into some leaf mold. And if leaves don’t satisfy you enough. You can always resort to grass composting.

Recognized for its award-winning and classic design, the Soil Saver Composter has been manufactured for over 25 years now. It features a capacity of 11 2/5 feet, and a weight of 30 pounds. It’s also composed of 75% post-consumer recycled polyethylene. And not only that, it also includes a ¼-inch structural foam molding and 2 slide up doors. So, purchase your own Soil Saver Composter with us today!

To know more about the product, check the Soil Saver Composter here.

No related posts.

Tags: composting leaves, compsoting, organic fertilizer

This entry was posted on Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 at 9:26 am and is filed under composting. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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