More Organic Gardening in Cuba

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Organic Pest Control for Grub Damage

If you suddenly see patches of yellow spots on your once-beautiful lawn, then you’ve probably got some Grub Damage currently taking place. But before you get right ahead into resolving this problem, it’s best to determine if it’s really Grubs that are destroying your lawn. And if you happen to confirm this, then you can always resort into using some organic pest control that can be used to kill grubs. You won’t have to find the need to use chemical insecticides, as there are many organic alternative that can be used to poison the grub, without harming you, your family, and your pets.So what are grubs exactly? Well, this grub worm (larval stage) actually has three kinds: (the adult stage) the Japanese Beetles, the June Beetles, and the Chafer grubs. You’ll be able to identify them right away if you see an an off-white skinned insect, with a dark head. Grubs are also usually seen formed in a C-shape position.White grubs like eating grass roots, which then leads to the grass dying, and the lawn patching (usually brown patches). Patches on the lawn will only turn yellow (will feel a bit spongy when you try to walk on the affected areas) if the grub have greatly damaged it. You’ll also know that there’s been a lot of damage if you start to effortlessly lift up patches of grass on your lawn.So what can you do to control grubs? If your lawn has about a few grubs per square foot, then it’s not much of a problem. But if there were more (like more than ten per square foot), then you’ll have to resort to having the lawn treated right away.Killing grubs would be best done when they’re still young, as they will be easier to manage. You’ll know that you’ve got some young grubs present when they start showing up between the months of March to April, or mid-July to September. You can get rid of grubs during these months (kill them during this timeframe so that you’ll still have them in their smaller sizes).You can also practice some preventive measures before resorting to using some organic grub control. You can start by taking care of your lawn to lessen the damages that may further harm it. What you can do also is to not water your lawn regularly. Beetles actually prefer thriving in areas that have grass, and has a constantly moist soil.Now, if things do worsen, then you can start treating these pests with some organic pesticides. You can use an organic alternative to eradicating these grubs, by starting with a combination of Milky Spore Grub Control (only apply once), and Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes. The nematodes will be the one responsible in getting the Milky Spore spread out. You can apply some Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes again, after about six months (starting from the time that you first applied it). This will help control further grub damage and growth on your lawn; and to also scatter Milky Spore. Another option for you to use would be is Grub Beater (has neem as an effective ingredient. Use this if the grub infestation has gotten much worse. Although there are more options to organic grubicides or organic pest control rather, they may be hard to get a hold of. So it’ll be a good idea to look them up online (try typing in organic insectides).GardenWorms.com recommends the Milky Spore Grub ControlGet the Milky Spore Grub Control for only $29.95! It’s the safest material that can definitely be used to control grub existence on your lawn (targets and discriminately works in eliminating white grubs). Not only that, it will provide your lawn an on-guard protective blanket; and will not harm any beneficial insects, humans or pets that may get into contact with it.To know more about the product, check the Milky Spore Grub Control here.

If you suddenly see patches of yellow spots on your once-beautiful lawn, then you’ve probably got some Grub Damage currently taking place. But before you get right ahead into resolving this problem, it’s best to determine if it’s really Grubs that are destroying your lawn. And if you happen to confirm this, then you can always resort into using some organic pest control that can be used to kill grubs. You won’t have to find the need to use chemical insecticides, as there are many organic alternative that can be used to poison the grub, without harming you, your family, and your pets.

Well, this grub worm (larval stage) actually has three kinds: (the adult stage) the Japanese Beetles, the June Beetles, and the Chafer grubs. You’ll be able to identify them right away if you see an an off-white skinned insect, with a dark head. Grubs are also usually seen formed in a C-shape position.

White grubs like eating grass roots, which then leads to the grass dying, and the lawn patching (usually brown patches). Patches on the lawn will only turn yellow (will feel a bit spongy when you try to walk on the affected areas) if the grub have greatly damaged it. You’ll also know that there’s been a lot of damage if you start to effortlessly lift up patches of grass on your lawn.

If your lawn has about a few grubs per square foot, then it’s not much of a problem. But if there were more (like more than ten per square foot), then you’ll have to resort to having the lawn treated right away.

Killing grubs would be best done when they’re still young, as they will be easier to manage. You’ll know that you’ve got some young grubs present when they start showing up between the months of March to April, or mid-July to September. You can get rid of grubs during these months (kill them during this timeframe so that you’ll still have them in their smaller sizes).

You can also practice some preventive measures before resorting to using some organic grub control. You can start by taking care of your lawn to lessen the damages that may further harm it. What you can do also is to not water your lawn regularly. Beetles actually prefer thriving in areas that have grass, and has a constantly moist soil.

Now, if things do worsen, then you can start treating these pests with some organic pesticides. You can use an organic alternative to eradicating these grubs, by starting with a combination of Milky Spore Grub Control (only apply once), and Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes. The nematodes will be the one responsible in getting the Milky Spore spread out. You can apply some Nemaseek Beneficial Nemotodes again, after about six months (starting from the time that you first applied it). This will help control further grub damage and growth on your lawn; and to also scatter Milky Spore. Another option for you to use would be is Grub Beater (has neem as an effective ingredient. Use this if the grub infestation has gotten much worse. Although there are more options to organic grubicides or organic pest control rather, they may be hard to get a hold of. So it’ll be a good idea to look them up online (try typing in organic insectides).

Get the Milky Spore Grub Control for only $29.95! It’s the safest material that can definitely be used to control grub existence on your lawn (targets and discriminately works in eliminating white grubs). Not only that, it will provide your lawn an on-guard protective blanket; and will not harm any beneficial insects, humans or pets that may get into contact with it.

To know more about the product, check the Milky Spore Grub Control here.

Related posts:

Lawn Pest Classifications and ManagementThe Difference between Moles and Voles

Tags: Chafer grubs, control grubs, get rid of grubs, grub worm, kill grubs, killing grubs, Milky Spore Grub Control, organic grub control, organic pesticides, white grubs

This entry was posted on Monday, August 23rd, 2010 at 4:46 am and is filed under pest control. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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Red Worms as Organic Chicken Feed

Chickens not only feed on insects, seeds, corns, grains, and other plant life. They also eat worms. Several poultry keepers use Red Worms as Organic Chicken Feed for their livestock. Worms are in fact, packed with nutrients; and is actually high in protein (amongst other essential feed ingredients). They’re not only used as bait for fish, or as a live worm food for other kinds of animals. They can be a really great supplement to backyard chickens as well.

Now, as another alternative to commercially available poultry feed, chicken breeders can also benefit a lot from vermicomposting. They get the chance to keep a continuous supply of red worms, that can be made available as chicken feed, whenever they need it. It’s convenient to have, easy to manage, and is very inexpensive to maintain. There are also a lot of red wigglers for sale that can be bought straight from a local bait shop, or through gardening stores (both local or online).

So, let’s just say that you’ve already got into some worm composting of your own; and have started to put together a well-maintained and moist worm bin (there are a lot of worm bins for sale with all its other variations and materials). Now, red worms aren’t that hard to breed and raise. You just have to feed them appropriately, and replenish their surroundings with fresh bedding when needed. It’s really just the same like raising chickens. Anyway, red worms get to reproduce every six weeks. Reproduction is continuous so you wouldn’t have to worm about running out of worm supply. Unless you’ve mismanaged in giving the right care for your worms, then they’re likely to die real early.

Anyway, buy composting worms of your choice. You can use nightcrawlers or red worms. But either way, both are still good food sources for your chickens. Anyhow, moving on, after probably the six week duration, you can check to see if your worms are ready to be cultivated from their bin. Try to get first those that are on the active top layer of the compost worm bin. Now, if you get to harvest some composting material through the process, make sure to put these back in the bin. You can use these later on, for other fertilizing means.

Now, as soon as you’ve harvested a few worms, you can then place them inside the small chicken coops or in the chicken houses (these are appropriate places when it comes to keeping chickens). The chickens will then be able to eat these worms off from the ground. These worms can definitely be fed to your livestock, at their living forms.

But there’s also another alternative to feeding worms to chickens. You can choose to dry them, and then grind them. You can dry worms by placing them under an electric light bulb, or place them inside an oven gas pilot light. Other than that, you can place these worms to dry out inside a greenhouse. And as soon as they’re dry, and ready to be crushed, you may then add the crushed worm pieces as an additive to your usual chicken food supply. Red Worms as Organic Chicken Feed can definitely be a good option for you to tap in, other than spending greatly on products from chicken feed suppliers.

Buy you own batch for only $23.49. Get yours shipped to your home, guaranteed live! Our Red Wriggler Worms will make sure to help improve your soil’s physical structure, enrich it with a lot of micro-organisms, improve its water retention capability, and more! Experience more benefits when you buys your own batch from us today.

To know more about the product, check the Red Wiggler Worms here.

Related posts:

What not to feed Red WigglersBuilding a Rain Barrel for your Organic Garden

Tags: backyard, chicken feed suppliers, chicken food, chicken houses, feed ingredients, keeping chickens, poultry feed, raising chickens, small chicken coops

This entry was posted on Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 at 7:20 am and is filed under Worm Composting. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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