Worm Species

1. Worm farming Introduction
2. Worm farming terms
3. Worm species which one is best?
4. Worm anatomy
5. Worm reproduction

 Knowing which worm to ranch is very important. If you went outside and found a handful of worms, put them in a bin, and began to love and feed them. They would surely die. On this page I'll talk about the best specie for composting, but if you should decide to venture into another purpose for your worm ranching skills then a little pointing in the right direction is always helpful.

 Earthworms are invertebrates and there are thousands of species (currently over 8,000) that are grouped into 3 categories.

Anecic group

Endogeic group

Epigeic group

Anecic group
like the common nightcrawler (species Lumbricus Terrestris Canadian Nightcrawlers, the best fishing worms) builds permanent vertical burrows that can extend 4-6 ft. in the soil. They come up to feed on decaying matter then retreat back into their burrow. They coat the walls of the burrow with mucous stabilizing it making it harder to collapse. They can even recognize their own burrow even in a high traffic environment where others of the same species have dug holes. They have a spoon-shaped tail with little retractable hairs  called setae which help it to grip the walls when being pulled out. These are very large worms and do not do well in a densely populated scenario. If you plan to culture these worms for fishing then this is your perfect bait.

Endogeic group
Like the Alabama Jumper (Species Pheretima Hawayanus, excellent garden worms) builds lateral burrows and rarely comes to the surface. They are pale, or have a pale pinkish tone. these are the only type of worms that eat soil and decaying matter. these can be good worms to have in your garden since they have lateral burrows which help to aerate the soil. these are your medium sized worms.

Epigeic group
Species (Eisenia fetida) A.K.A. red wigglers, redworms, manure worms, tigerworms, brandling worms, red wrigglers, and composting worms. These worms spend most of their time on the topsoil where rich decaying matter is found like leaves, grass, wood, manure, etc...  When roughly handled, they exude a pungent liquid thus the specific name fetida meaning fetid- nauseating: having a rotten or offensive smell. This is presumably a defense. In my experience with these little guys you don't notice any smell unless they are in a squirm (a large mass of worms) and it's still only a mild odor . So if you're wanting to raise worms and harvest their castings (poop) then these guys are your little poopers.

View the original article here

Worm Farming Bins

1. Worm farming bins Introduction
2. Plastic worm bins
3. Continuous flow through bin
4. Flow through reactor

Worm bins can come in all shapes and sizes and by the time your done reading this guide you just might have enough information to come up with some kind of worm farming bin of your own. Although, I'm sure by now your squirming to get started, but you might want to consider a few options first so you'll know what best fits your needs. It is always said, that as easy as it is to start a worm farm, these small scale bins are actually the hardest. In the event that there is some kind of imbalance there is little room for the worms to go. With that being said, I want to go over some basics that are important for all worm farming bins.

#1 Bedding
Bedding, Bedding, and more bedding. This is probably the most important of all inside the worm farming bin. This can make or break the farm. It increases air flow. It provides plenty of carbon rich supplements. It helps soak up nitrogen rich acids and brings a good balance to the system. Remember, when adding the bedding think of things that are spongy and porous like peat moss, straw, and corrugated cardboard (no glossy cardboard). I believe the browner (more organic) the cardboard is, the better it is for the worms. Stay away from bleached/processed whites only if you can. Always remember that you cannot add too much bedding. This keeps it aerated and allows plenty of oxygen to flow throughout the bin.

#2 Greens
Many, of what I consider "greens", is a good nitrogen source. Omit of course, the ones we discussed about in the feeding section of the book. Always throw in your greens in moderate amounts to avoid high acid or thermophilic conditions. You should not have to add very much or any water at all to the system, depending on how wet your greens are. I've told you that worm bins do not stink if properly taken care of, but don't put too much broccoli in as this normally has a strong odor. However, if you cover it up pretty good and leave it alone for a while, then you can determine how much to put in each time.

#3 Aeration, moisture, and drainage
 These all kind of go together and depend heavily on gravity, evaporation and the worms ability to move around in the bedding. If water isn't properly draining, then the moisture percentage will rise. If oxygen can't get in, then the bin will become too moist and anaerobic. On the other hand, if it becomes too dry then the food source may dry up along with your worms. The worms may also go into a hibernation or in search for another food source. You'll find out that keeping it moist is much easier than getting it too dry. Adequate ventilation is a must at all times. As gas is emitted from the top of the compost oxygen is sucked in from the bottom. So be sure to put your holes in the right places. Worms themselves are great aerators and they'll help you out whenever possible. Keep in mind the damp sponge theory.
 

 Note: Remember, if you don't have the perfect conditions for your worms don't be overly concerned. Sometimes they will move completely out of the food source and cling to the walls of the worm farming bin. They are somewhat migratory. They'll just move to a section of the bin that they feel comfortable with then move back into the bedding when conditions are right. You'll get the hang of it pretty quick and when you feel comfortable, you'll stop checking on them so much . I've had bins that I haven't maintained for a couple of months and when I lifted the lid, it was business as usual. I'm sure I could have left it for longer, but most of the time I miss my worms and end up lifting the bin every other day to let them know I care. I know. I'm crazy! But you will learn to love your little poopers too.

View the original article here

Worm Farming Food

Worm farming food is pretty much like a buffet. I'm sure you know how it feels when you can't wait to get to a buffet. You're miserable because you're so hungry, then when you've stuffed yourself you're miserable again. You feel like you've ate your entire weight in food. Well, now you know how a worm feels. Yes! You heard me correctly. Under optimum conditions a worm will eat its entire weight in compost every day. If you have 1 pound of worms then that's 1 pound of poop. That is why red wigglers are called composting worms.

 When it comes to being picky about eating, just about anything that grows from the ground is fair game for worms. After all that is what they were created for, to eat the decaying matter and turn it into food for the next generation of plant life. The most common and practical way of feeding your worms is to give them kitchen scraps along with some kind of carbon rich food. This is what most people start off doing who are just getting in to vermicomposting.

 Worm Farming Food  With Greens

 Greens, like Kitchen scraps, is a great source for worm farming food and should always be something that grows from the ground. These are usually foods like lettuce, corn, broccoli, grains, coffee with the bags, and so on. Keep in mind these foods are high in nitrogen and will need to be balanced with some carbon based material so be sure to put plenty of paper or wood products into the bin. Foods that you put in will sometimes get warm or even hot so it is a good idea to let it set for a week before introducing it to the worms. The last thing you  need is for all your worms to crawl out searching for a new home. When feeding these foods to your worms, do it in moderation. If it's introduced in large amounts too fast then the microbial community will begin to take over faster than what the worms can keep up with. This will cause it to smell and be too wet and it will throw the bin into a thermophilic process. You may also get some unwanted friends called fruit flies. They will not hurt your worms but can be a nuisance in your house when when they come flying out of the bin. Natural kitchen scraps contain a lot of moister already so be cautious. When in doubt, keep it out!

Worms are very resilient. they can go a long time without food. When food is scarce they'll begin to eat their castings till their is no more nutrition left. It is always better to underfeed than to overfeed. One helpful hint when feeding your worms is to put your kitchen scraps in the freezer. This will help break down the cells of the plant turning it into mush. This makes it much easier for the bacteria to do its job so the worms can do their job and you'll have castings almost twice as fast. Now, there have been some who skip the whole process and just blend it. STOP! Leave this to the professionals. This takes practice. Concentrate on getting good at regular kitchen scraps first. If you poor in a liquid slurry the worms will have no room to wiggle around in and it will go anaerobic too quickly. There must be adequate air space for the compost to breath. Do your research.  Keep in mind when adding carbon based foods like coconut coir, cardboard, newspaper, toilet paper (unused of course) etc... will be broken down faster than things like, saw dust, mulch, sticks, and straw to name a few. I've put some small sticks in before, and after months it looked like I put them in yesterday.

Other kitchen scraps that are NOT good for the worm bin are as follows:

Milk or any dairy products

Meat or fats

Oily substances

Citric, or highly acidic fruits. Tomatoes are ok in moderation

spicy or hot peppers or plants. Mild and sweet peppers are ok (I've heard onions in moderation, but this will impede the process)

A good rule of thumb to remember is: If it comes from the ground you can make it brown other than the ones listed above.

Caution: Be careful when you are considering feeding your worms things like saut?ed mushrooms, leftover salads, twice baked potatoes, etc.. Many people don't realize that they've added butter, oils, spices etc.

Worm Farming Food  With Manure

This substance, in my opinion, is the one of the best food source for worm farming food if you are planning on using it on your household plants, garden, or lawn. To get a good understanding consider this. The more complex the microbial community the more complex the soil. The more frequently matter is broken down the more complex it becomes. Plants thrive on this complexity of microorganisms and that is essentially what the plant is feeding on. Just like you and I eat a complex diet so must the worms and the plants.
So why manure...? Consider this.

Cow plucks grass

Teeth break down grass

Cow regurgitates grass and chews it again

Grass is further broken down 4 more times by its digestive compartments

Cow poops and manure is put into a compost pile where bacteria break it down even further

Compost is now fed to worms which break it down one last time

Vermicastings is now ready to feed to plants

 Now you see the potential manure has as a worm farming food and a worm-to-plant food. If you plan to use manure from any animal then you must be sure to compost it to rid the pile of any harmful bacteria or pathogens. You also kill off the seeds from weeds and grasses that the animal ate, therefore avoiding any way of putting them into your garden. Remember, I said that what comes from the ground is ok to give to the worms. It's ok to feed manure to your worms because that animal only ate of what came from the ground as well. Bovine, goats, sheep, rabbits, poultry, and horses are all good examples of herbivores. I'll make an exception for the poultry. (Caution: Definitely compost poultry a good while as this can be high in ammonia and salts)

But what about pig, dog or even human manure (humanure).

I'm sure without a doubt someone is having good success with it, but like I said avoid dairy, oils, and meats because all three species eats them. Also consider that it's a lot harder to kill off harmful diseases from these smelly poopers. It's just best to be safe. If you're interested in composting these wastes for environmental reasons, then you may be interested in Bakashi composting.

Worm Farming Food  With Outside Sources

You can put any tree, plant, grass or shrub in with your worms as long as it's not poisonous, It will not hurt the bin as long as it is not in large quantities. However, like manure it can contain seeds that you may not want in your garden and also, like manure, if it's composted first it will be more complex. But either way you'll be happy with the outcome for your worm farming food. Now, If you would like to feed the worms your lawn, leaves, trees, or plants from your garden then you need to be cautious. Be aware of any herbicides or pesticides that was sprayed on your lawn or maybe near your lawn. When it rains, the water from your neighbors lawn (that's been sprayed by chemicals) may run off onto your lawn or garden. Some of these chemicals can harm your composting worms and you don't want them ending up on your plate either. We have enough in our commercial food already. Hopefully, if you're like me, one of the purposes for raising worms is to replace the many harmful and deadly chemicals that is degrading and killing our soil, depleting it of minerals and healthy organisms worm farming food

Other Thoughts

 Always keep in mind that worms are like you and I. They need a variety on their plate. The more they have to choose from, the more nutrition the plants will have to choose from, like a buffet. There may be some plants that are higher in protozoa than others. If you keep feeding your worms these high protozoan foods then that's all you'll have to put in your garden. Some plants need more bacteria than protozoa and some need more fungi than bacteria. Some plants need everything on the menu. You would be quite unhealthy if all you had to eat was protein. you would succumb to protein poisoning. So mix your worm farming food up a little bit like a good salad.
worm farming food

View the original article here

Worm Farming Books

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

View the original article here

Worm Farming Pests

 Worm farming pests do get in on occasions, so I put together a small list that you may want to refer to from time to time. After reading this page it should come to no surprise. However, you will have questions when you see just what wormed its way into the bin. They may be friend, they may be foe. So here's a list just so you'll know.

Friends (The Annoying kind)

Spider mites (Brown and white) worm farming pests
 It's not entirely uncommon to find some kind of mite in the bin. These creatures are also the Creator's clean up crew. Any time a bin becomes too acidic it can have an over population of mites, mainly the brown or white spider mite. These guys aren't necessarily a problem as much as they are a nuisance. In some cases they can bring balance to your system. When worms become sick or start dying, they will consume them but leave the healthy ones alone. However, if the mites become too populated, they may start to choke out the worms and the worms may look for new residence. There is a popular way among worm ranchers to get rid of these little pests. They seem to love cantaloupe and watermelon. Place the rinds  on top of the compost (after you have enjoyed the fruit of course). Leave it over night and the next day you will have mites covering the rind from top to bottom. Wash the mites off over the sink. Keep repeating the process until you are satisfied with the results. When you're done leave the rinds in for your worms to enjoy.
See a demonstration on removing mites

Fruit flies worm farming pests
Not a friend, neither an ally, just plane annoying. They stay in your house for what seems like weeks-on-end. I currently don't know of any silver bullet for this pest except time. Here is a common method for ending the cycle of nature.
Solution: Fill a small bowl with apple cider vinegar, wrap it with plastic wrap and punch a couple of small holes in it in the middle about the size of a pencil. They will fly into the hole and eventually drown. They seem to be attracted to the acid in the vinegar. This is probably what attracted them to the bin in the first place. Remember to add the food in small layers to avoid rapid bacteria growth and pungent odor. A way to prevent their eggs from hatching can be to freeze your food or boil it before feeding it to the worms. Make sure to burry the food under at least 2 inches of bedding to eliminate any flies from getting in. This will also mask the smell from emanating from the bin.

Sow Bugs (pill bug) worm farming pests
Pay no attention to these guys. They're more friends than anything else. They break down the hard matter like wood and leaves. They're actually perfect for the bin. Now I'm not saying go grab a handful and throw them in, but rather just acknowledge their presence and thank them for the role they play within the cycle of nature.

Solution: If they populate too much then let them know that they've wore out their welcome by tossing them out one by one.

Springtails worm farming pests
These are in fact not a pest but help in the break down of organic material. They have an organ called a fercula (a tail-like appendage) that they hold against their body. when they need to go somewhere they release this organ that catapults them into the air thus being called the springtail. They are literally small enough to fit on the head of a pin. No need to even give these critters a second look.

Solution: N/A

Foes

Ants worm farming pests
Ants for the most part pose no threat to the worm bin environment. A few scouting ants here and there are not an issue but you know that scouts can bring a slew of others competing for the food. So, be on the lookout for scouts.

Solution: A preventive measure you can take on bins inside or out (especially the stackable ones) is to put the legs of the bin into bowls of water. This serves as a mote. Either the ants will drown or avoid the water altogether.

Red Mites worm farming pests
Farmer beware! These are parasites that latch onto the worm and suck the blood right out of it. It will also attach itself and suck fluid from the cocoons. Make no mistake. These are predatory creatures. I have not had experience with these blood suckers. I've only read about them.

Solution: So the only way to get rid of them that I've read is to *See instructions below.

Centipedes and millipedes worm farming pests
At first glance you may mistake these arthropods as a worm because of its long segmented brownish body. They mainly feed on decaying matter but are also known to feed on small insects, other arthropods, and yes, earthworms. I am not sure what makes these bugs feed on worms from time to time but...

Solution: If you see any, it's a good idea to pull them out. Be careful! Some can be poisonous but not detrimental to humans, just irritating. Watch out for those pincers!

Soldier Flies worm farming pests
They live in wetlands and enjoy composts and manures. I'm mainly talking about the maggots in general. They can grow in numbers if not taken care of. they do no harm to the worms and they are great composters. But again, its unneeded competition for food. If you only have a few you might want to wait it out, if not then...

Solution: You'll need to start from scratch. *see instructions below.

Other predators

Earth dwellers worm farming pests
If you plan on having some type of setup outside then you better be prepared for double trouble. Other potential unwanted visitors may include moles and shrews. Moles live underground and burrow through the root systems of plants and grasses.

Solution: Be sure your worm habitat if directly on the ground has a bottom to it like wood, concrete, or metal screening. There's no better delicacy to a mole than worm delight. (Note: If you have some type of flooring make sure it has proper drainage so you don't flood your worms from too much leachate.)

Birds worm farming pests
 INCOMING! INCOMING! That's right! We all know the early bird gets the worm and if they're on to you then you might as well fill your bird feeder with your worms instead.

Solution: The best plan of action is to have all four walls and a roof. Install some kind a chicken wire or put a cover over it. This also applies to those who have backyard chickens or free range (pastured) chickens clucking about.

Other Thoughts

Obviously the list could get quite long but these are some of the biggest threats posed to worms. Most of you will be operating on a small scale and indoors so you won't have to worry too much about unwanted guests. I know what you're thinking. Now you're getting scared about starting your own worm farm. Relax! It's much easier than you think. Once you get the hang of it, the system will practically take care of itself. Many of you will never have a problem, but I  just though it was appropriate for everyone to be aware of extraterrestrials lurking about.

Rebooting instructions
 *In the worst-case-scenario you have no success in managing your pest population then you'll have to start all over by pulling out all your worms, washing them over some type of screen mesh or colander (Guys don't tell the wife), rinse out the bin, and prepare it with fresh bedding.

View the original article here

Worm Farming Revealed, Free Guide To Raising Worms and Worm Compost.

"You offer solid resources throughout the site and your video showing the DIY Worm Bin proves how easy it can be to get started."

This is a FREE GUIDE that I created to help people grow larger, tastier, and healthier produce (not too mention greener house plants and lawns  as well). By now I'm sure you know it has something to do with worms. Well, your right, but It's not actually these wonderful composters themselves that are beneficial. It's their poop. Yep, you heard me, WORM POOP! (a.k.a. worm castings) Nature's richest and healthiest soil amendment on Earth.

Watch How Fun And Easy This Is!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8hPxy_d_6o

You may not realize it, but everyday we walk on it, play in it, and best of all we eat it. Well, ok not directly, but the plants do. Worms turn dying vegetation into rich plant food for the next generation of plant life. They've been doing it right under our noses for thousands of years.

I remember the first time I started a worm bin I did it all wrong. The bin stunk, I wasted my time and money, and the worms died. You won't make the same mistake I did, because I'll show you how to do it right the first time. Here is a list of the ways it benefited me and how it can benefit you also...

Never spend a dime on harmful chemical fertilizers or worry about burning your plants.

Turn your garbage into a rich soil amendment.

Grow a BIGGER, TASTIER fruit.

Get away from harmful pesticides.

Produce fertilizer twice as fast and more nutritious than any garden composter.

Help Reduce Our Addiction to landfills. Give it to the worms.

Create "Worm Tea" a wonderful power drink for plants.

Reclaim the soil by spreading the fertile truth on it.

And a lot more!

JUST BY FEEDING WORMS YOUR GARBAGE!

I want to reveal "THE DIRT" on how you can  restore your soil to its natural, healthy microbial state, while feeling good about giving back to the land. I've been gardening for years. I've tried chemical fertilizers and pesticides and quite frankly, they scare me!

I'm sure you've heard the stories before. The chemicals do nothing but rob and kill the soil. so, if we were made from the soil, then what are the chemicals doing to us? How did we get to this point in agriculture? Well, I set out on a mission to find a better way for myself and my family. I wanted to find a natural way of growing a rich soil amendment for my garden, lawn, and plants and low and behold I did. It was right under my nose all along. WORMS! Yep, That's exactly why they were created. They are nature's recycling creatures. I guess if nature was designed to do it right, then we can too and at Worm Farming Revealed so can you.

So, roll up your sleeves, put on your gloves, and get ready to get dirty. (actually the worms do all the work all you have to do is feed them...oh, and change their bedding once in a while;-)

Learn All about Worm Farming Now!

Free newsletter below

I update this site regularly so, please subscribe to the free monthly newsletter The Poop Scoop. It contains the latest scoop on what's new at Worm Farming Revealed including tips and techniques that you can only find in the newsletter. so, sign up below.

View the original article here

Worm Farming Stories

Spraying Worm Tea

I just sprayed my garden plants and soil with worm tea and can I just say, "WOW!"
It continually amazes me at how wonderful my plants respond to the tea.
Look at the spinach!
Also, my corn was barely noticeable up close. Now, it's about 1 1/2 inches tall.
All this was in about a day 1/2 time frame.

Pauly

    Spinach before worm tea            Spinach after worm tea  

View the original article here